Retro was the golden age of Hollywood glamour jewellery : Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo… There was nothing subtle or demure about it . Oversized, dramatic, deco-inspired designs were common and very often asymmetrical and whimsical. Jewellery designs of the period used broad expansés of polished gold, especially rose gold, due to the short supply of platinum that was required for the war. Diamonds were rare, but rubies were all the rage together with many colourful semi-precious stones such as citrines, aquamarines and amethysts. Key makers of this period were Mauboussin, John Rubel – also a key designer for Van Cleef & Arpels – Schlumberger, Sterlé and Verdura.